Monday, November 24, 2008

Kakum/Cape Coast



Day three we left Kumasi early and drove south to Kakum National Park. This park hosts the much publicized canopy walkway. The suspension bridge spans 7 trees and gives you a clear view of the surrounding forest. Green as far as the eye can see. They were working on one of the platforms, so we were only able to see the first 5 stretches but it was very cool to be so far up and walking on a little ladder. Of course we were in a rain forest so we were sopping wet from the humidity by the time we were through. Charles gave us a bit of information about the forest saying that the animals stay very hidden. As it was only recently established as a National Park there have been some issues with local farmers hunting in the forest for food, or what they call bush meat. So the animals stay hidden during the day. Many of the plants are used for herbal remedies but are now protected from harvest. Hopefully over the next few years the animals will feel safer and begin to return in larger numbers. On our way out I did spot a tree full of weaver birds and got a fairly good shot of on building his nest. We also saw one lime green snake and many butterflies. Then we were BACK IN THE CAR for another hour or so before we hit Cape Coast.





Our night in Cape Coast was much like that in Kumasi. We ate dinner at the hotel, sampled some kenke (another doughy substance) and swam in the pool. Note: drinking anything but beer is EXPENSIVE. Stick with the local brews Star and Stone and you'll be better off.



The following morning we hit two coastal towns, Elmina and then Cape Coast. We left to see Elmina first, as we wanted to see the fishermen in their boats before they all headed out for the day. The fishermen village was CRAZY. Packed with people and wooden boats flying flags of all colors. The boatmen can choose their own flags, so you will often see Jamaican, South African, American, French and original flags flying, regardless of the fact all the boats are Ghanaian. Along the streets the women sell the fish and crabs which are so fresh, they're still breathing. You can't help but feel sorry for them in the sun. Elmina is home to one of the main castles and has a rich Dutch and British heritage. There are a lot of colonial era buildings in various states of decay and apparently the Dutch government will subsidize any Ghanaian building owner making renovations. In fact, they will pay up to 80% of the costs!



Both the Elmina and Cape Coast castles are painted white with blue shutters, which belies their history as defense mechanisms and trading grounds. While they were used for many years in the trade of spices, gold and other goods, they are most famous for their role in the slave trade. By the time we got to Cape Coast castle I was beginning to feel the heat and a bit of nausea. Unfortunately the first stop on the tour of the castle are the male dungeons. All I could think as we looked into the entrance (a big black hole going into the ground) was "I don't want to go in there, I don't want to go down there". You can imagine what a captured native would have felt. Many of them were marched south from other territories, hundreds of miles, so were exhausted and traumatized. Split from their families they were crammed into unventilated dungeons for up to 6 weeks waiting transport over the Atlantic ocean. Africans who had never seen the ocean were faced with months on the water during their voyage and some committed suicide if they could manage it. What Seth and I both found interesting though was that the United States actually imported far fewer slaves than other regions such as the Bahamas, Central and South America. It's surprising as the history and impact of slavery is such an important part us US curriculum. We studied it every year for as long as I can remember.

If you follow the tunnels from the dungeons to the beach where the slaves were loaded onto boats you pass through "the door of no return". Hundreds of years ago you would be confronted with dozens of row boats being filled with captives to be taken out to the ships off the coast. A wild sight I'm sure. Now you can barely make out the sand for how many fishing boats have been pulled ashore. Nets, fishing baskets, flags and people mill about creating a vibrant scene. It's a very obvious contrast and one that hit home for both of us. The castles are a huge draw for many people searching for their roots in Africa and are frequently visited. If you turn around and walk back through the door you will see it has been symbolically named "the door of return", welcoming the sons and daughters of Africa back home.

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